MATCH THE BOARD TO THE CONDITIONS, WAVE & DAY.

If you only understand 1 thing, let it be this - if you match the board to the wave type correctly, you will be able to surf the wave well because the board is working well in that wave type. If you have the wrong board for the wave, you will be constantly working to make the board go, and so working on the board, not the wave.

It's that simple.

You have to build a quiver, that's that.

Leave the thinking to the designer.
Don't learn bottom contours, rockers, ¼” here or there, foam distribution, and plan shape. That's the designers-shaper's job right?
The designer did what they did so the board would go in certain types of waves.                                                                                

Find that “type of wave” and then further ask yourself, am i being realistic about my ambitions? Then, even more thoughtfully tailor the board ( length, rail line, surface area, volume) & style of board (short, hybrid, mid, gun, h.p. longboard, modern log ) to the rider (objectives, abilities, weight).

Volume (litres), is 'static float' ,& surface area / plan shape/ sweetspot, is 'moving float' ,glide, and lift / projection. Too much volume actually stops the board engaging with the water, meaning the wave rolls under you more easily, especially on larger boards.

Instead, match the board to the conditions, the crowd & your ability.
Really analyse what the designer-shaper is saying about the boards function and purpose.. match the board to your weight, strength ,paddling ability & skill so you can engage the entire board with the wave.

The thinking is slightly different depending whether we are talking about a shorboard, midlength, longboard or sup, but strangely enough it still follows a logical pattern”.